This build is Kirito’s Dark Repulser from the anime Sword Art Online.
As is with my other builds, I first create a model using Google Sketchup. You can find my sketchup file here: Dark Repulser.
My first step was to do a top view in sketchup and print out the blade template and use that to draw onto my piece of 1/2 inch (3/8 inch actual) thick Poplar wood.
Next, I cut out the parts with my jigsaw.
Next, I used a compass to out line where the blade edge starts and ends. With those lines in place I could use my belt sander to edge the sword without over or under shooting. I used files to help sand down the sharper turns and corners.
Now, since my piece of wood was not wide enough, I did have to split this blade into 2 separate cuts. I proceeded to drill a 1/4 inch thick hole through the “bottom” part of the blade.
I then used wood glue to attach it back to the main blade. After that was attached, I used this small piece as a drill guide so that I could continue drilling a 1/4 inch hole into the main blade. This 1/4 inch hole will have a 1/4 inch aluminum rod going through it.
My next step was to 3D print all of the other parts. I had to split some of the parts into multiple files as my 3D printer can not print parts that long. The hilt was designed to have a 1/4 inch hole so that I could put the aluminum rod through all the pieces to properly connect them. Plus I don’t have to worry about drilling through it myself, it’s all 100% accurate.
Here are a few shots with the rod going through the pieces.
With the help of the rod, I glued the hilt pieces together with E-6000. I also glued together the blade detail part.
Next, I sanded the hilt as 3D printed pieces from hobby printers are not perfectly smooth.
Once sanded, I rubbed it down with acetone to slightly melt and smooth out the ABS plastic.
Finally, I used a primer filler and sanded it smooth.
Next up, the same process for the blade detail. First sand and then smooth out with an acetone wipe down.
Followed up with bondo to close off some gaps, then another sand, and finally sprayed on primer filler and sanded that.
Here is a quick shot of both the hilt and blade detail covered with a thin layer of bondo putty to get rid of the really tiny holes followed by a pic of them both sanded down before the layer of primer filler was applied.
Next, I made a mold box for the blade detail as I need 2 exact copies for the blade. I just used foam board and hot glue.
I then filled it up with the correct amount of Smooth-On’s Oomoo 30.
Perfect mold! Had to trim off some of the excess that when under the master.
And 2 exact copies perfectly cast. Because I took the extra time to smooth out the master, there is no need at all to sand down these copies. They are ready for paint.
A quick test fit of all the pieces before I continue on with the painting and then the gluing. The blue triangular bits were also 3D printed.
The paint took me some time to figure out the best to use. I made use of Behr’s SmartColor smartphone app to grab colors from the original reference picture. From there, I decided what color was closest. These are the colors I ended up using:
- Hilt Color: Hidden Forest (ECC-51-3)
- Blade Color: Intense Jade (470B-4)
- Detail Color: Scotch Lassie (480D-5)
These are latex paints. I used my air compressor + spray gun to spray these paints on. I had the colors mixed at Home Depot and had them mix just 8oz sample size containers. More than enough for what I needed them for.
For coloring the gems on the blade detail, I sprayed the darker color on first on the whole thing, and then used painters tape to mask.
I do not have pictures for the painting process but this was the end result. After painting each piece I then glued it all together with JB Weld. It is always best to paint as much as you can before gluing things together.